How to build a perfect chicken coop?

Hi,

I have intended to build a perfect chicken coop in my backyard. I don't want to buy ready-made coops because they are costlier. I do want to build my own chicken coop at affordable cost, which is not more than $500. I do want to raise only 10 chickens..

Chook House Construction Plan

Constructing your very own chook house on your backyard is not as complicated as it seems. A simple chook house construction plan is just easy to understand and implement. A complex chook house plan may require you to understand engineering drawing which is unnecessary. To give all the best possible comfort to your backyard chickens you should definitely follow a plan and be methodical during construction.
A well done chook house construction plan would give you the following key ideas:

• A very secured environment is necessary for the birds to live and feel safe. Your construction plan should give you details of securing the coop tightly. This will prevent other animals and predators from attacking the birds.

• You would come to know about the best possible orientation for the chicken coop when you access a very good quality plan. Orientation is important because sunshine, wind, sloping of the ground etc will have an impact inside and outside the coop. Depending on the location where you live and the weather conditions you may have to select the correct design.

• An arrangement for proper feeders and waterers is another factor that any good plan should provide. This is critical for good health of the birds.

• Another valuable input that comes from a good chicken house construction plan is the sizing of the coop. You should be building the coop to accommodate the birds that you have today and also accommodate a few birds in the future. Going by approximation should be avoided.

• The birds are going to sleep and also going to lay fresh quality eggs everyday. These activities require special arrangements in the form of nesting boxes and roosting. Good quality chicken house construction plans would provide several design options for these items. Take a close look at all the designs and go for a design that will make the birds really comfortable.
So, all you need to know on how to construct a very good chook house have been detailed here. It is now high time for you to get started.

By: Jasun Armstrong

Article Directory: http://www.articledashboard.com

Looking for chicken coop information? Visit www.buildachickencoop.com.au for Jasun Armstrong’s tips on how to build a chicken coop, as well as the best chicken coop designs.

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If you’ve been keeping up with my blog posts lately you’ll know I’ve come to adding a few news posts from around the web on this subject. I’ve got a couple more today that are new and updated, so let me know what you think of em…

| Building a Chicken Coop

Building a Chicken Coop At Building a Chicken Coop our aim is to help you get the best house for your chickens. We will guide you through the different types of coops, downloadable plans, complete kits and the ranges of ready-made hen …

Stell Homestead: Chicken Coop, revisited

Not that I am looking for a chicken coop, but if I was, this is the one I probably would want. It's called the "Little Egg Chicken Tractor" sold by GardenEggs. It would be big enough for us to grow into, (as we are thinking of starting …

Blue Wave Pix: Old Chicken Coops

Old Chicken Coops. This old chicken coop is part of Peterson's Upland Farm in Wahiawa. It's probably the last few places to farm fresh eggs on O'ahu. These old coops are used for storage. Posted by Blue Wave 707 at 00:02 …

Hope you enjoy the read as much as I did and please if you have something to say, use the comments form below to let everyone know your thoughts.

Have a great day!

Building a chicken coop is a real treasure of a product. It is a downloadable ebook which tells you all you need to know about building your own chicken coop.

In Building a chicken coop you will learn how best to position the coop, how to ventilate it properly, how to care for your chickens, what foods to avoid when feeding them and lots, lots more.

Bill Keene, the author, is an experienced poultry farmer and he explains, through simple to follow plans and diagrams, how to make a chicken coop from common materials, what foods to give your chickens, how to build different sizes of chicken coop, for example, midsize and premium coops.

In fact he even explains how to build a portable coop which can then be used to provide organic fertilizer for your lawn or garden. He also explains the cheapest materials which you can use and to really seal the deal he is giving 4 bonus books FREE. These cover such topics as the cheapest materials sources, the best materials for the ground, how to best position the coop for light and heat and most importantly how to protect your chickens from predators.

He also provides information on what breed of chicken to use for best results and insists that there are no fancy tools required.

Oh, and the best part is that there is a 60 day 100% money back guarantee if you are not satisfied.

In summary I would strongly recommend this product if you want a plentiful supply of fresh food and don’t want to worry about the source and fears of chickens being pumped with antibiotics etc. In fact there are very sound reasons from an environmental,financial and health perspective to build your own chicken coop and if that is an idea that you have been considering then look no further than this very effective and informative product.

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Treats That Pooch CANNOT Eat!
 by: Steve Cowan

Anyone who has ever owned a dog will know that they are not particularly fussy eaters, to put it mildly! Anything and everything that can be consumed will pass through pooch’s digestive system at some point, and by no means will all of it be food as we know it!

Your dog also has a very well developed sense of smell, so that what he or she considers to be “foodstuffs” (yesterdays chicken bones in the kitchen trash can, for example), stuff that you may believe is hidden (i.e. out of sight) is as evident to your dog as the nose his face. Rest assured that your dog will find anything that can be eaten, wherever it is!

Ninety-nine percent of the time, this will not be a major problem. An inconvenience maybe when tonight’s dinner that was cooling in the kitchen miraculously disappears, but not a major drama.

The problem is that dogs (obviously) have little or no knowledge of whether what they eat is good or bad for them, nor do they care. Reverting to the previous example, every human probably knows that, whilst beef or lamb bones are a delectable treat for Fido, chicken bones are a definite no-go, owing to their tendency to splinter and stick in the dogs throat.

However, not every dog owner is aware that some of the everyday foodstuffs that we consume and take for granted, and are happy to give to our families, could be very dangerous, even potentially lethal, if given to your dog.

For example, were you aware that the simple chocolate bar that is stashed at the back of your fridge might actually constitute a potentially deadly hazard for your four legged friend? This is potentially a major problem, as the majority of dogs seem especially partial to chocolate, in my experience.

Whilst it has been recently reported that it may be high in human-friendly antioxidants, the problem for your dog is that chocolate contains various chemicals, which can be highly dangerous, if not lethal.

Sadly, consumption of relatively minor traces of these chemicals can cause your dog such serious medical problems as increased heart rate, palpitations and so on. Large amounts could even lead to total cardiac failure, seizures, coma and eventually death.

Of course, we have to keep this in perspective and it is extremely unlikely that one small piece of chocolate given as a “treat” every now and then will harm your dog in any way. However, be aware that different breeds of dogs show different levels of resistance to the chemicals in chocolate, and that the dogs size and weight would also be a factor to consider. Whilst a pound of the wrong kind of chocolate might kill a smaller dog, it may merely cause a Bull Mastiff or a Doberman to have a day or two of digestive discomfort, and no doubt one or two unpleasant “accidents” along the way!

The simple answer is the obvious one, so don’t give the family pet huge amounts of chocolate! At the same time, take precautions to minimize the risks, by making sure that any chocolate in the house is stored above the dogs “forage level” and that your family members, especially young children, know not to give their chocolate away!

There are a few other goods that we consider to be food that, again, may not be too good for the family dog. Some strains of mushroom, for example, can cause your pet problems (liver and kidney damage, abdominal pain) and, whilst garlic is extremely good for humans, it can cause vomiting and diarrhea in dogs.

The bottom line is, do not assume that just because you can eat it, so can your dog.

Whilst he will regularly devour a host of things that you would never go near, understand that there are a few things that your digestive system handles without problems that your dog just cannot cope with!

For more dog caring and training hints, tips and suggestions, visit my site at http://webbiz99.com/dogtraining/index.html

About The Author

Steve Cowan is an Asia based businessman and writer,as well as an international racing driver and full time father.To discover more,visit his blog -What’s New Today,Stanley?- at http://webbiz99.com/

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Back with more news for you today. It’s amazing how much good information there is on this stuff out there if you know where to look. Three in particular that I found really valuable were…

What To Look For Before Buying a Chicken Coop For Your Backyard

You have lot of choice in buying the chicken coops. You will have lot of sizes, designs and various material grades. You have to buy one which suits your requirement.

Chicken Coop Video Guide – Only Video Guide! – Prizes Up For Grabs …

CLICK HERE TO ORDER THE MAKE YOUR OWN CHICKEN COOP VIDEO GUIDE AND GET STARTED BUILDING YOUR CHICKEN COOP TODAY!Unique Video Guide Means No Room For Error!

Chicken Coop Renovations « The City Girl Farmer

One of the projects we started was renovating the chicken coop. Old nest box. The old nest box was quite deteriorated and just awful to clean. I came across and idea perusing other people's blogs and decided to build new nest boxes with …

Hope you enjoy the read as much as I did and please if you have something to say, use the comments form below to let everyone know your thoughts.

Have a great day!

You’ve asked a few friends and Chow Chow owners about the temperament and ease of looking after a pet of this breed, and you’ve received many encouraging replies. Now, you feel encouraged to look out only for a Chow Chow. So, where do you go looking for one and how do you go about it? Let’s find out.

First, do not contemplate buying a pet from a pet store or wherever else you cannot easily see the parents of the pup before buying it. It would be in your interests to visit a good kennel where you can request to see the breeds available and then decide.

On this basis, you can make an informed choice of a good pup by just spending a little more on finding out the dog’s background, if he is in conformity with the breed standard and if he is predisposed to any diseases. This information can save you not just a lot of future grief but paying out huge vet bills too.

Characteristics of this breed: Your pet Chow Chow could be either highly energetic or just plain placid. Chow Chows are also known to be hardheaded, obstinate, serious and introverted as also loving, good-natured and loyal.

In your pet, you could also find these traits:

1 He resembles a teddy bear and therefore comes across as cuddly and cute

2 Stands proudly with a confident stature

3 Is a reliable and fearsome watchdog

4 Is inherently clean and easily housebroken

5 Is well mannered and quiet

6 Needs moderate exercise but must be groomed regularly

Though these are the general qualities of a Chow Chow, it is equally true that you can never be sure what your pup will grow up to be like. This is because many purebred pups do not grow up conforming to the standard.

Why not to buy a Chow Chow: On the flip side, there are certain reasons why you might not want to take in a Chow Chow, such as:

1 He is overly suspicious or openly aggressive when unsocialized

2 He has an aggressive streak that extends to other pets too

3 He is very strong-willed and determined and resists being nagged. For this reason, he must be handled by an experienced and confident owner who can be he dominant partner without having to use force

4 He needs regular grooming that includes brushing and combing, particularly if he is the rough coat variety

5 He sheds a lot

6 He will suffer from health-related problems

7 He has such an independent streak in him that it can result stubbornness and disobedience to his master

8 He could also be very jealous of either your new baby or other pets, whether older than him or younger

9 They are also known to kill small animals such as cats and rodents, often leaving a dead mouse at your door more for sport than your safety

10 They are sometimes difficult to train. They are therefore not recommended if you are a first time pet owner or are not in a position or do not want to show your dog who is the boss

Where you can safely buy your Chow Chow: Though there are three avenues of buying purebred pups—the pet shop, the casual or backyard breeder and the hobby breeder, perhaps the worst of them all is the pet shop.

Here, dogs are bred unselectively, often sold in wholesale lots to pet stores. They are kept caged until sold, often unsocialized, unloved and unhappy. So, it’s not surprising that they are just not right for homes, since they lack in temperament, socialization and health.

It stands to reason that if a pup has a bad beginning with a commercial breeder of this caliber, he stands a very slim chance of growing into a healthy, well- adjusted and beautiful pet. So, when you go out to select a pup, think with your head rather than your heart.

If you choose to think with the latter, you will end up buying that sad little pup who’s caged up. But for reasons mentioned above, it will be the wrong choice for you. And in any case, a greedy breeder will continue to breed more and more pups to replace him.

The backyard breeder: Typically, your backyard breeder buys a female of a particular breed from a pet shop on the proprietor’s assurance that a year down the line, he can safely breed her, sell the resulting pups and make back his investment on her.

A match is then made between her and the male down the street, whose owner has the same attitude to his male as the breeder has to his female—to make back his purchase price. Soon, the female gives birth to a litter of pups and though can be registered by the AKC, are of no greater quality than their parents.

This is because neither party cared to go into the physical and genetic history and makeup of each partner. When the litter was born, no care was given to the new mother and her pups and later the breeder was unmindful of giving any care and attention to socializing, training or conditioning the new pups.

Instead, further damage to these pups was done when the breeder weaned them earlier than usual, thereby depriving them of the necessary bonding with their mother, only to be sold as fast as possible so he could make back his investment in the mother.

The serious breeder: Instead of buying from an ignorant and heartless buyer, you should really seek out a committed, and serious breeder or exhibitor.

Such breeders invest many, many hours studying pedigrees and lineage, evaluating and observing their dogs for faults and virtues, and all the time giving them their love, care and attention. When you see these breeders with their dogs at dog shows, you can see the fruits of their labor.

Breeders work very hard grooming and training their pups before they can be sold to good homes. It would therefore be well worth asking him about practical realities of buying a particular breed that you have in mind. So, ask him if the breed you’re considering is high on vet’s bills, how long it takes to look after newborns, how much time he spends with potential buyers, whether it costs much to groom, train and socialize them before they are quality dogs.

The hobby breeder: This breeder breeds dogs as a hobby and not for commercial gain. He is a very responsible breeder whose only interests are to produce the ideal dog of their breed and to show dogs—in fact, his dogs are his pets and show dogs. Often his kennels include the couch or bed. He works hard to breed only the best without any worry about time, research, money and effort spent.

You can depend on him to do the genetic screening for any medical problems in their breed, spay or neuter the dog. Such a breeder is committed to every dog he produces. He sells only by referral.

Where to avoid buying a pup from: If pups are being sold at flea markets, roadside stands, motel rooms and pet shops, these are the worst places to buy from as unscrupulous breeders who produce pups in large numbers sell their litters here for a quick buck.

To them, the only breeding prerequisite is that the sire and dam have AKC papers. They don’t care about the quality, health or temperament of the pup.

Commercial breeders produce in large numbers and sell the weakest of the lot to these roadside sellers at a cheap price.

Locating a good breeder: An experienced and reputable breeder is the best person to give you a good quality puppy. He should be able to show you his stock from which you can choose and can also suggest a dog to suit your needs and lifestyle.

Breeding quality dogs is a tough job, not possible by just anyone at all. It needs hands-on knowledge gleaned by constant exposure to breeders at dog shows.

You can contact these breeders from a catalog brought out by the AKC. The Chow Chow Club Inc., the national Chow breed club, also brings out a magazine titled “Chow Life” which is an excellent source of reputable breeders.

A good breeder doesn’t produce in large numbers, so you will have to wait for a puppy. He will ask you a lot of questions to make sure you are the right person to take a pup from him. In turn, you too must ask him a lot of questions.

What to ask the breeder: When you go to look at puppies, ask him the following questions:

Does he have a pedigree for the puppy?

Have the parents of the pup been X-rayed for Hip Dysplasia?

Does the pup suffer from entropion?

What guarantees does he offer? What happens if your pup doesn’t turn out according to the guarantee? Can he be replaced or will your money be returned?

Are the sire and dam available for you to see?

Does he have the AKC registration papers to show you?

Do his pups come with AKC registration?

Does he own the parents of this pup or at least one of them?

Where were the parents or mother bought?

Which vaccinations has he been given? Is he checked for worms?

What does he eat? What is he allergic to?

Since when has he been breeding Chow Chows?

How many litters does he produce every year?

Does he offer a health guarantee?

Is he affiliated to any regional or national dog clubs?

How much does he charge for this one?

What health tests have been done on BOTH parents of the litter?

What temperament testing and socialization have been done?

What goals do the breeder have with the breeding program and how does the breeder go about to achieve this?

What does the breeder feel are the strengths and weaknesses in the breed and the breeder’s program?

What type of contract does the breeder have for pet or show puppies?

How many champions has he finished?

Is either parent of the puppy a champion? Or his grandparents? If so, are there AKC championship certificates or photographs to prove this?

How to choose your pup: Ensure that you see at least one show quality litter before you buy. Once you have seen a good litter, you will make a better choice, because you will know the difference between these puppies and an ill- bred one.

When you ring to ask about a litter, ask as many questions as you can over the phone. If you find the answers not forthcoming, you know he isn’t knowledgeable and you can reconsider going over to him. Arrange to see about five to 10 litters before buying. First, look at the adults, as well as the puppies.

Reputable breeders do not sell puppies under eight weeks old. They must be free of parasites and should be kept clean and in hygienic surroundings. They should have their first series of shots. Do not pick up a pup from filthy surroundings or it will develop parasite problems.

See if your pup is alert and active but not vicious. He should not have a runny nose nor should his tongue be bluish. Does he have a short wide muzzle, heavy bone and broad chest and big body. Now, set him down and make him walk. If he moves about freely, he’s on.

If you select a quality Chow Chow, it means that he conforms to the standard recognized by the AKC. Ask the breeder to tell you the differences between show puppies and good pet quality puppies.

Understanding the breeder’s lingo: If you can’t understand typical jargon, communicating with your breeder will be very difficult. So, get the lowdown on what he means when he says the following:

Show potential: To be of show quality, your pup must pass a basic orthopedic examination at age 10-12 weeks. He should also have excellent breed type and that something extra that sets him off as different from all the other entrants.

Breeding quality: These pups, though essentially the same as the show type, rarely ever have that something extra that judges are looking for.

Pet quality: Healthy and beautiful, these pups may have a small flaw in them which renders them unfit for breeding or showing, for instance, a bad bite, etc.

Finding a new home for your pet: You were starry-eyed about bringing your Chow Chow home and you never thought you’d have to give him up so easily.

But even if you can’t keep him, you’d still like to do your best by him. So, how about making the right future choices for him?

Bear in mind that your dog is still your responsibility. Even now he depends on you to look after him. So, even if it takes all your time, effort and patience to find him a good home, you deserve to do your best for him.

How to find him a new home: Consider sending your pup to any one of the following:

Animal shelters: Shelters and humane societies are meant to care for unloved and abused animals. They certainly aren’t a place where you can offload your unwanted pets. Though they admit about 100 pets each day, few of them ever leave the shelter to go to a good home. So, where does that leave your pet?

Even if your pet is a purebred, that doesn’t mean he will be the preferred choice of a prospective buyer. Besides, the reputation your Chow Chow enjoys is a deterrent since many people are frightened of Chow Chows. So, some shelters won’t put them up for adoption. Then, if he’s old, he has slimmer chances of being adopted.

“No-kill” shelters and breed rescue services: No one ever wants to see their pet being killed, so they don’t admit many pets. But breed rescue services are small, private groups run by volunteers who are dedicated to a particular breed. Their services are expensive and they are so much in demand that they too cannot accept every dog that comes their way.

But it can help by placing your pet by giving you referrals of people interested in your pet’s breed. Follow this advice if you want success. You can contact the nearest Chow Rescue service if you call the Chow Welfare Hotline at 608-756- 2008 or write to the Chow Chow Club, Inc.’s Welfare Committee.

If you’d like to find out more about Chow Chows, then visit my blog over at http://chow–chow.blogspot.com

About The Author

Phil Stephens is a Chow Chow breeder and author of ‘Chow Chows revealed’. If you’re interested in finding out more about Chow Chows, visit us at http://chow–chow.blogspot.com for all you ever wanted to know about the reclusive Chow Chow.

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Getting to know your dog starts by getting to know its breed. At Kingdom of Pets, we keep a large database of detailed information on the appearance, personality, and health requirements of individual dog breeds. Here’s what you need to know about the Beagle:

The Beagle is a breed that ranks as one of the top choices for families. These dogs are extremely loyal, charming, and very sweet. Although great with people, the Beagle has an amazing sense of smell, which can make leash training a bit of a challenge. However, with patience and determination, you can help your dog overcome this behavior. The Beagle falls within the Scent Hound and Hound group of dogs, which is recognized by the American Kennel Club. This particular breed is an excellent companion dog and one great with children and other pets.

Physical Appearance

The average weight for a beagle is between 15 and 28 pounds with height around 13 to 16 inches. With proper care, the Beagle can live up to 14 years of age. The body of this breed tends to be compact with floppy ears, gentle expression, and smooth, short hair. Although a strong dog, the Beagle is not an overly muscled breed. The colors recognized by the American Kennel Club include the following:

* Tri-color

* Lemon and White

* Orange and White

Temperament and Personality

Because the Beagle is such a docile breed, they work well in just about any situation. The only thing to remember is that the Beagle should be well socialized to avoid problems with timidity. However, if you want a great family dog, this breed is superior. You will find the Beagle to be highly intelligent although when it comes to training, they can be a bit on the stubborn side.

This breed is generally a pack animal, which means they can have tendency toward separation anxiety. While you could certainly own one Beagle with or without another dog, they are usually more content with a furry friend. Sadly, many people associate the Beagle with howling and although some do, not all dogs of this breed are vocal.

Funny, loving, gentle, and enjoyable are all words that describe the Beagle. Even with their stubbornness while walking, this particular breed is rarely known to become angered. The smaller size, temperament, and personality are just a few reasons more and more families are choosing a Beagle.

Health

For the most part, Beagles have few problems although there are a few things you want to be aware of before choosing this breed. As you will notice by the appearance, the Beagle has long, floppy ears. While beneficial, the ears can also stop air from getting into the ear canals, which can create minor problems. Typically, wiping the inside of the ears out a few times a week will prevent the buildup of dirt.

Another relatively common problem is with ingrown eyelashes, something known as Distichiasis, which would require a quick trip to the veterinarian. You also want to watch the weight of your Beagle in that these dogs love to eat. Unfortunately, too much weight can cause serious problems with joints, specifically Hip Dysplasia. Other potential problems although not as common include Congenital Heart Disease, Polyarthristis, which is a condition by which the immune system actually attacks the dog’s joints, and epilepsy and seizures.

About The Author

Daniel Stevens is the renowned dog trainer and author of SitStayFetch, a leading dog training guide having sold over 21,000 copies (and counting). See http://www.kingdomofpets.com/dogobediencetraining/dogbreeds/beagle.php for more on dog breeds.

I have come across many different types of plans and designs for building chicken coops. You can get everything from a glorified kennel to a 2 level condominium style for those owners who have very posh chickens. Before you jump in and build a chicken coop or even buy one have a read of these chicken coop tips to get started on the right track.

Tip 1 – Keep it simple – like the chickens

To be honest you will find that chickens need a few things to keep them happy. They need somewhere to wander around and cluck. They also need an indoor area where they can keep warm. Most importantly, they need somewhere comfortable and suitable for laying eggs. Finally your chickens will need feeding.

Tip 2 – Keep your chickens secure

You can eat both the chickens and the eggs they lay. Humans are not the only species to work this out. So the construction must be secure and sturdy enough to keep out unwanted predators.

Tip 3 – Keep you chicken coop away from the house

Whilst you will grow to love and cherish your chickens they can be quite noisy and a bit smelly. To stop this having too much effect on your daily life it is worth planning a site for your coop away from your home. The main advantage of having the coop close to the house is for improved security. As long as you have built it strongly this should not be an issue.

Tip 4 – Keep your coop clean

You need to keep your coop clean for 2 reasons. One is the smell that you get that is almost unique to chicken coops. This smell can be overwhelming at times so this cleaning must be regular and frequent. The other reason for coop cleanliness is to keep the bugs and diseases down to a minimum.

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Portable chicken coop?

We want to make a fairly large chicken coop but we are struggling with how to attach the wheels so we can luck life them up when we dont need them any ideas?

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Owning Your Own Controls
 by: Eldon Taylor

What makes the difference between two children raised in the same environment with the same parents when one ends up a neuro-surgeon and the other a hardened violent criminal? What makes the difference between two patients suffering in a hospice center from identical conditions when one requires very little medication and is liked by all, while the other suffers bitterly regardless of the medication and no one really wants to be around them? What are the subtle differences that seem to allow one person to live a certain life style free of illness while another doing the same things becomes ill as a result? What defines a stimulus as stressful to one while the same exact stimulus is welcomed with excitement by another? The answer is so simple as to be overly obvious.

In my work, I have had the opportunity to work with a wide range of individuals in differing settings, ranging from the inmate incarcerated in maximum security to the terminal patient in the hospice center. Over the years my observations ultimately led to this hypothesis: the persons who seem to suffer most consider themselves to be victims. The classic victim scenario in the prison generally goes something like this: all but for the grace of God there go you. Translated by the inmate population, this means something like, “What would you do? Where would you be? After all, my daddy was an alcoholic, my mother was a prostitute and the neighbor boy hung heroine on me when I was only eight”.

The fact is, our environment and circumstance do imprint us in profound ways. Our very ability to cope depends in large on our choices and they are predetermined in large by our enculturation process. Thus, what else could the victim of these tragedies do?

We all grow up with some substantially similar ideas and notions about what is fair and acceptable. We all tend to say things like “When I’m a parent, I’ll do it differently”; and yet, when our children act in some way that meets with our disapproval, we respond just as our parents did. Psychologist call this process imprinting. In very simple terms, if you raise a duckling with chickens, it will behave as a chicken. There is a marvelous story that illustrates this point.

It seems one day that an eagle flew over a chicken coop. To his amazement, pecking in the yard below, was a large gathering of chickens and a lone, beautiful female eagle. He swooped down for a closer look and the chickens together with the eagle fled to the chicken house. For days the eagle watched the chickens from a distance until one day he was certain that he could stop the beautiful eagle before she reached the chicken house. With the prowess of an eagle he was suddenly in between the eagle and the chicken house. She trembled. He spoke, “What are you doing living down here like a chicken”. She answered, “I am a chicken”. He argued, showing her the similarities between himself and her. He told her of what it was like to be an eagle and soar high above the earth. His stories only frightened her. Finally she said, “Well if I’m an eagle then you will not harm me”. He responded in the affirmative. She said, “Then step back and show me.” As he stepped backed she seized the opportunity to run into the chicken house. When the other chickens questioned her about the encounter, she told them all of how she had outsmarted the eagle. Of course, all the chickens commended her for tricking the eagle.

Many of us are like the female eagle. We outsmart ourselves with betrayals of who we really are. Our choices are predicated on our beliefs and our beliefs have been adopted from the same process inherent to the story about the chickens and the chicken house. Here is another example of how this kind of reason pervades who and what we are.

One day a man walking the streets of Manhattan passed beneath a high rise complex that consisted of very expensive condominiums. As he passed under the balcony of one of the two story units a flower pot which had been placed precariously close to the balcony edge fell and crashed down on his head. Now imagine this man’s choices. What could he do? What would be the normal thing to do? Well, he could take the broken pot back to its owners and put it guess where. Administer a beating to the idiot that put the flower pot too close to the edge, that’s what most people respond with as their first thought when I have presented this scenario to audiences. What else could he do? Well, he could be metaphysical. You know, kismet, what’s to be will be, after all, maybe the blow to his head rearranged some neurons and now he will experience higher consciousness. So just be metaphysical and act as if it was supposed to happen and just go on down the road. What else could he do? Well, he could be an opportunist. You know that flower pot fell from a wealthy person’s ledge. Whip lash, concussion, something like that—sue the sucker!

What else could he do? What would you do? How about taking the flower to a florist, potting it and returning it as a gift of love? Could you just as well do that? Of all the possibilities, which one do you think would produce the best outcome for yourself in terms of happiness, wholeness and even health?

The fact is, the normal person has been trained to behave in a normal manner. Normal means that they have a right to become angry and exact punishment. Robert Laing once said something like “normal man has educated himself to be normal and thus to become absurd” in his book THE POLITICS OF EXPERIENCE. The emotional reaction termed anger is just one such absurdity. What happens to the body when one becomes normal is no less than a weakening of the immune system and further, suspended states of fight flight, or as we know it in more modern man, anxiety and depression, literally produce chemistry that is toxic to the human condition. As Dr.’s Steven Locke and Douglas Colligan point out in their book, THE HEALER WITHIN, these hostile emotions, victim, if you will, feelings, literally can condition the body in the direction of disease as well as produce certain diseases in and of themselves (1986).

The correct answer in our flower pot analogy is of course, pot the flower and return it as a gift. The idea is not foreign in terms of possible alternatives and yet it is seldom ever considered. Our choices arise from our definitions and they have been incubated all too often in chicken houses, but let’s stop for a moment and look at one of the preferred enculturated choices from the human chicken house. My work and research has demonstrated that for every fear there is an anger response. Sometimes the anger is withheld, turned in, and sometimes it is acted out. Nevertheless, there is no such thing as anger without some fear underpinning it! Now, what exactly is anger? My examination of this cycle of fear and anger has given rise to an acronym that I often use when describing anger. A—a, N—nasty, G—getting, E—even, R—response. A nasty getting even response. If fear and anger are circular, what is it that gives rise to feeling frightened, anxious or nervous, becoming angry and responding in a fight/flight way when the stimulus is something like the way my employer speaks to me, the way my significant other looks at me, or just the stuff one feels when cut off in five o’clock traffic and given the infamous bird. None of these things are truly life threatening and after all, isn’t that what the fight/flight functions are wired in for, the preservation of the species?

Dr. Carl LaPresch used to speak of the four “F’s” in his introductory lectures regarding basic psychology. These four primitive drives were the basis for most behavior. In fact, it was Carl who first suggested to me that perhaps the highest act of human consciousness was cortical inhibition—over riding the wired in responses that can occur in the primitive brain. The four “f’s” are easy to remember and oriented to species preservation: fight, flight, feeding and—well the propagation of the species.

Why then a fight/flight response to a synthetic stimuli—that is a stimuli that is not life threatening? What special lens do we attach to certain events in life that give rise to a perception of threat when indeed the threat is not a tiger in hot pursuit? My early hypothesis regarding the fear/anger loop eventually led to the conclusion that perceived threats were rejection oriented. In other words, our individual intrinsic value was denied. Interestingly though, for most of us, the normal strategy for avoiding rejection is itself the ultimate rejection. There are two ways to be tied up in the world. One is to have someone literally bind you and another is simply to tether oneself to a thread, refusing either to pull hard enough to break it or to let it go. Many of our beliefs are the product of the latter. We refuse to let them go. Like the eagle raised by the chickens, we know what we are expected to do and define our behavior accordingly. Thus, to resolve conflict we establish strategies designed to protect us from rejection. Among these strategies our defense mechanisms function, as well as our attitudes, toward everything we will encounter in our lives.

When I was a boy my definitions included labels and what I have termed for years as the no-don’t syndrome. In my many lectures throughout America and Europe, the audience has repeatedly verified that my experience was not unique. Indeed, it was the rule. If this generalization applies, then most of us were raised with statements like: “You’re not old enough.” “You’re stupid or that’s stupid.” “Children are to be seen and not heard.” “Don’t do this”—”you can’t do that”—and so forth as well as a host of labels.

It was not long before I was wearing glasses and one of my best friends was black. My early definitions were in direct conflict with my experience; still, various strategies for coping with this conflict developed, albeit most unconsciously.

It wasn’t until I was in my thirties that I learned that not only did I wear glasses and have black friends, but my grandfather was Jewish and my great grandmother was Native American. For years I had coped by demonstrating that I was “tough enough” to wear glasses and not get called four-eyes and to stand up for what just inherently seemed wrong and later became known to me as bigotry and racism. In other words, my defense strategy was compensatory—aggression would align my inner with the outer—my experience with my training as a child could avoid conflict by simply becoming too tough for someone to challenge my behavior.

The result was devastating. Not only did I poison myself, but the never ending quest to justify my actions produced increasing needs for aggression. My relationships deteriorated and/or were destroyed, and well, you can just imagine the havoc wreaked in my own life. The method of choice for conflict in my particular upbringing was aggressive—and hostility was the norm.

What I have found over the years of life and work is that once again, this was not a unique pattern. Oh, the circumstances may vary from individual to individual, but the essence of the lesson never did. The result for many of us is a mechanism called blame. That brings us right back to our inmate whose daddy was an alcoholic and so forth. Alas, a light went on that set years of work and research into perspective, at least for me.

Now here is the bottom line: as long as one blames anything or anyone they are effectively tied up. There is nothing they can do. They are victims of their circumstances. They can only but whimper. As victims, they are helpless. As victims, perhaps they are even due benefits such as sympathy, attention, special care and so on. But as victims, they are not in charge of their circumstances and/or their responses.

Applying this theory I discovered that regardless of the circumstances, from hospice to prison, the suffering was directly related to blame or “victim-hood”. What is more, I discovered that on the opposite side of this continuum, rested the self responsible. The person who assumed control of their own life and found creative solutions for difficult situations—returning the flower, if you will, replanted in a new flower pot.

These responsible individuals were in charge of their own inner environments. Their secret was simple, they did not become angry and involved in blame. Oh they did not necessarily accept everyone or anything, in fact, quite the contrary in some instances, but they did not waste time eliminating their possibilities by divesting their power via blame. They took the initiative to resolve situations positively and assumed the responsibility for doing so. Unlike the whimpering victim, they were what they made of the stuff of life and accepted so.

There is an interesting experiment that has been replicated many times and perhaps addresses the effect this kind of hopelessness/helplessness mentality can have on physical health. Dogs were placed in Pavlovian slings where they could do nothing when electric shock was administered by psychologist Martin Seligman at the University of Pennsylvania in an experiment to determine the effects of helplessness. Seligman suggests that many of us have learned that nothing can be done in many circumstances to make a difference. Once the dogs were conditioned to the shock they were then placed in cages with floors that on one side of the cage an electric grid could be used to apply shock while on the other side of a low barrier wall the dog could escape the shock. What Seligman discovered has many ramifications. Dogs who had not been conditioned in the sling ran around frantically when shock was first administered. They learned to jump the small wall and escape the shock. They became so good at it that when the electricity was turned on, they simply got up and casually jumped over the wall. However, dogs that had been conditioned to the sling ran frantically at first just as the unconditioned dogs but soon quit and only whimpered. They accepted the shock passively and thus the whimpering shocked dog metaphor (Ibid). This sense or conditioned belief in victim-hood has been demonstrated to effect the immune system in a negative manner. The Institute of Noetic Sciences has funded much of the research in what is now termed PNI or psychoneuroimmunology and this body of work shows clearly, as does the entire body of literature regarding mind/body wellness, that the deleterious effects of certain mental processes on the body can literally kill ( ). Nothing I could do—helplessness—victim-hood—this side of the responsibility equation is among the worst of mental processes one can adopt regardless of its source. In fact, in a paper that is now in press, we learned from a follow-up study of terminally diagnosed patients conducted by PROGRESSIVE AWARENESS RESEARCH, that the physicians attitude is somehow more influential on patient life expectancy than either the treatment modality or the patients attitude toward their future, their responsibility regarding the disease and/or their outcome expectation. Somehow the attitude of the physician is assumed to have been communicated to the patient for in every single instance where the physicians responded to the questionnaire regarding patients role in terms of the positive use of their mind with neutral to negative evaluation, the patient died. The study generally indicated a survival rate of over 30% for all respondents (remission) and an increase in life by up to three years over time given in prognosis for those patients whose physicians generally agreed that the mind has a role in patient health even in the face of “terminal” illness. The assumption suggests that one must fully accept the responsibility for their own lives and mental processes even if that means guarding against the influence of another.

What then is the pragmatic to overcome, or I prefer, to outgrow, this early conditioning. Once again, it’s so simple as to be difficult—difficult to believe and difficult to do. The answer is forgive! In my research we began applying three messages as cognitive tools to untie the victim. They are called the forgiveness set and consist of these three statements: I forgive myself; I forgive all others; and I am forgiven.

When you forgive, you can not blame. If you do not blame it’s exceedingly difficult to become angry. What you cannot become angry about, you do not fear. When there is nothing to fear, there is nothing to become angry about or no one to blame. Life is simply a miracle and living is the process of maximizing the miraculous experience. Every thought or deed becomes therefore differently oriented. When you accept responsibility for everything in your universe, you gain the power to make changes. The real changes are made in you and thus your experience of life and self become qualitatively different almost immediately.

You are in charge of your inner environment, and your beliefs, attitudes and emotions do matter to you. Your health, your enjoyment of life, your ability to become all that you are is inescapably involved in your ability to forgive and let go.

But alas, you may say, that’s all too simple and further life sucks and then we die. And I am sure you can find many that will agree. Still, if you want to see the barnyard from the sky, spread your wings and see for yourself. Seeing is believing. Try it—I promise, you’ll like it. And if necessary, fake it until you make it.

Copyright 2005 Eldon Taylor

About The Author

Eldon Taylor is the author of over 200 books and self improvement programs. His vitae is listed in over a dozen “Who’s Who” publications. He is diplomat in the American Psychotherapy Association and received the 2005 Peace Prize awarded by the United Cultural Convention for his work in teachning self-responsibility around the world. His works are available in five languages and are sold around the world (www.innertalk.com).

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How warm should a chicken coop be in winter?

we have 4 grown hens and we need to know how warm to keep the coop.we live in northeastern TN and it can get cold.Thanks!

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Create Your Own Chicken Coups Today

If you are a chicken breeder, and you have baby chicks, you will soon realize how fast they grow as the days go by. Eventually, you will need a place to house your fast growing chicks. This is the exact time to consider creating a chicken coup for them.

Take a trip straight to your favourite hardware store and make a list of all the materials you will need to get started with your chicken coup creation. This DIY task will certainly cost you less than a hundred dollars. You will need a few pieces of wood, chicken wires, and some hinges to fasten your coup door for starters.

If you are completely clueless on how to get started, then log on to the World Wide Web for design and plans you can utilize for your chicken coup project. You will surely find a wealth of information on how you can get started with your DIY chicken coup plan. Just bear in mind your growing chicks and how soon they’ll need a place to stay and inhabit. There were a few designs online to choose from. Make sure to choose a simple design which you will least likely to mess up. And, most importantly, bear in mind that you needed a design that you could complete in a short span of time. After downloading and printing the design plans and making a list of everything I needed, I headed straight back to the store to get the materials. All I needed was some lumber and some chicken wire. I already had the nails, screws, hinges, hammers and saws I needed at home.

This task is not as daunting as it seem, you will just need to know how to use the hammer, saw and cut your wood pieces and chicken wire appropriately for them to fit your chicken coup design and technical plans. Make sure that you have the floors all sloped from the main door, well-ventilated, and can dry up easily to avoid harmful outside elements from plaguing your chicks. Just follow the DIY steps and you will definitely create a very good chicken coup that’s safe, clean, and habitable for your fast growing chicks.

By: Jasun Armstrong

Article Directory: http://www.articledashboard.com

Jasun Armstrong is a chicke
1000
n coup expert. Head over to www.chickencoup.com.au for all of your chicken coop and chicken pen needs.

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